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Friday, December 13, 2019

52 Weeks of Burgers Review: Broadway 5050 has one of the top 10 best burgers in San Antonio - San Antonio Express-News

Rating: Solid neighborhood option

Broadway 5050 has been an Alamo Heights neighborhood institution dating back to 1927. It’s one of the oldest bar and grills in the San Antonio area, and it looks and smells every bit of it with the classic neon signage, weathered furniture and the delightful backdrop scent of stale beer and fryer grease.

Like a good prize fighter, Broadway 5050 has managed to always survive the battle, with a history that includes a few fires, temporary closures and multiple ownership changes.

The outdoor marquee, touting the cocktails and burgers served within, has purpose. Broadway 5050 is more than capable of delivering a solid bar experience, with food good enough to satisfy most lunch and dinner cravings (the kitchen closes at 10 p.m. most days).

Soft, dinner roll-style buns anchor the 6-burger lineup, topped with hand-formed beef patties that weigh in a little more than a quarter pound and are consistently cooked to medium (unless you ask for something different). They pair well with one of the best starter menus in town.

On ExpressNews.com: Read all 52 Weeks of Burgers reports so far

Broadway 5050

Location: 5050 Broadway, 210-832-0050

Online: broadway5050.com

Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Mondays through Fridays, 10 a.m. to 2 a.m. Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 12 a.m. Sundays.

Best burger: The signature 09er ($12) is a towering burger spectacle that meets every flavor expectation. The creamy ghost pepper cheese is more Casper friendly than genuine heat horror, and the chipotle mayonnaise blends with the crunchy fried egg, pickled jalapeños and bacon strips for balanced bites that hit sweet, spice and smoke.

It’s a slam dunk as one of the top 10 burgers in the San Antonio area.

Other burgers: The El Jefe ($11) is Broadway’s other signature burger, and blue cheese anchors the flavor experience. There just wasn’t enough of it applied to the patty to make a noticeable difference between it and The Royal ($9) burger that keeps it classic with a slice of American cheese.

And skip the pepper burger ($10). It’s so similar to the 09er with ingredients, it comes off like an underwhelming knockoff that doesn’t justify the $2 savings.

Broadway 5050 also features a rotating “burger of the month” option that your server will describe for you, but menu options that vanish every 30 or 31 days aren’t practical for this series.

On ExpressNews.com: 52 Weeks of Burgers: Monster Burgers

Fried sides: The mouth-watering Totchos ($8) swap the tortilla chips with the tater tots, serving them up with all the traditional toppings of a fully-loaded nacho platter. It’s listed as an appetizer, but it eats like a meal.

Fist-size onion rings are the big winner on the traditional fried menu, delivering crunchy, hot discs with a shaggy batter that properly sticks to the onion slice with every bite.

On the fry spectrum, the traditional house fries take an extended grease bath and are served extra crispy, but they lacked the pillowy potato innards of a standout spud stick. And continuing my “it’s not you, it’s me” disdain for those always-soggy sweet potato fries, the Broadway take on them failed to budge my opinion.

Maverick: Chicken sandwiches are getting a lot of love nowadays, and Broadway’s Buffalo chicken sandwich ($10) is a tender and juicy standout with a generous piece of pounded out poultry that extends beyond the barriers of the bun.

Also, don’t skip the six pack of deviled eggs ($4), which come with a good bite of crispy bacon in the middle — good enough that you’d be proud to serve these at a potluck.

Chuck Blount is a food writer and columnist covering all things grilled and smoked in the San Antonio area. Find his Chuck's Food Shack columns on our subscriber site, ExpressNews.com, or read his other coverage on our free site, mySA.com. | cblount@express-news.net | Twitter: @chuck_blount   | Instagram: @bbqdiver

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52 Weeks of Burgers Review: Broadway 5050 has one of the top 10 best burgers in San Antonio - San Antonio Express-News
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