Rating: Solid neighborhood option
Located in Southtown near the Blue Star Arts Complex, Burgerteca was founded in 2017. It’s a concept from chef and owner Johnny Hernandez that was designed to blend Mexican flavors with the classic American burger.
San Antonio has a handful of chefs who have attained national prominence, and Hernandez has cemented his place as one of them. He’s been regularly featured in Food Network programming, is a strong advocate for the area food scene, and has expanded his eight-restaurant empire — which includes La Gloria and The Frutería — beyond the city into Houston and Las Vegas.
So when you go to Burgerteca, there’s an expectation of a heightened dining experience. And it delivers one, but it comes more in the form of the outstanding service, colorful decor and festive energy within the restaurant than the food itself.
In mostly well-done, fast-food thin patties, the beef tends to play more of a supporting role to the house buns, toppings and other elements of the Burgerteca menu.
Burgerteca
Location: 403 Blue Star St., Suite 105, 210-635-0016
Facebook: Burgerteca
Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sundays
On ExpressNews.com: Read all 52 Weeks of Burgers reports so far
Best burger: I love charred pineapple in all forms (yes, even on pizza) because I like the distinct flavor pop. And it works with the Al Pastor burger ($9.75) in the same way that it benefits the namesake taco, providing a sweet and tart kick to the crunchy cabbage slaw, creamy tomatillo sauce and melted manchego cheese finish.
It’s the burger that perhaps most defines the concept Hernandez was shooting for with the restaurant.
Other burgers: Burgerteca may focus on Mexico-inspired flavors, but it delivers the classic American with the Big Tex Classic ($7.25). Add bacon and a slice of cheese, and it holds its own in this series.
The La Enchilada burger ($9.95) sounds tempting — beef patty, tomatillo ketchup, chile ancho, corn tortillas, queso fresco, crema, pickled red onions, cilantro — but eating it is another story. Instead of a gooey cheese enchilada-burger fusion, it’s more of a pair of dry, scorched cheese taquitos topping a dry, scorched burger patty that brought the dining experience to a grinding halt.
The Chile Con Queso burger ($8.25) was a little better, providing an amicable marriage of the nacho and burger universe with a slather of black bean paste. Still, I’d rather just get the chips and cheese on the side.
On ExpressNews.com: 52 Weeks of Burgers Review: Broadway 5050
Fried sides: Tots and onions rings don’t exist here, and that’s OK. According to staff, the queso fundido fries ($9.25) are the most popular item on the menu, and it’s easy to see why. A mound of white cheese, slivered poblano peppers and a generous topping of well-seasoned chorizo on top of a bed of crispy fries make for the perfect potato party. Just remember to eat it hot, because the cheese clumps quickly.
You can get the standard fries ($2.75) on their own, but when in Burgerteca, go for Burgerteca.
Maverick: The Big Tex Crispy Dog ($6.95) is the taste of San Antonio in a frankfurter. Queso, three monster slices of fresh avocado, bacon, grilled onions and a fried tortilla casing pair with a smokey, meaty link that ranks among the best hot dogs in the city.
Chuck Blount is a food writer and columnist covering all things grilled and smoked in the San Antonio area. Find his Chuck's Food Shack columns on our subscriber site, ExpressNews.com, or read his other coverage on our free site, mySA.com. | cblount@express-news.net | Twitter: @chuck_blount | Instagram: @bbqdiver
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52 Weeks of Burgers Review: Burgerteca has one of the best hot dogs in San Antonio - San Antonio Express-News
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